A Day Off – Sort Of

I woke up and wanted to take the day off. I haven’t had a full day off since Thanksgiving, and I was rushed off my feet cooking for that. So I took the day off. Mostly.

I emailed my Laurel so she has the same information my judges do.

I pulled out the ginu to iron them, even though I was taking the day off. Don’t worry, no ironing happened. I realized that I did not feel comfortable wearing ginu that are meant for the fourth lunar month, May. No, not even for a video so I’d look super pretty. I try to keep my depiction of a Heian noblewoman as authentic as I can make it, and no self-respecting court lady would wear thin robes for summer in winter. So I’ll shoot the video tomorrow in just the travelling outfit sans hat.

I did start looking over my script for the video and found I didn’t quite like it, so I’ve been tweaking that.

It’s not really a day off, but it’s the slowest I’ve had in a month. Feels really weird not to sew.

My brush flies again As I write another poem For another day

An opportunity to Share words with the world once more

Entered!

Exhale with relief The great task is at its end Time for some small rest

A whirlwind of silk and words Packaged up in an email

It’s done! I sent in the required things and have received confirmation that everything is in order. I’m over the moon about it. It’s a really big accomplishment, and I’m extraordinarily proud of getting this done on time and well.

Would you like to read my documentation? Just click on documentation and you’ll be whisked away to a public google document. It’s not short. 11 pages. And it has pictures! And I suppose you would like to see at least one picture of the completed outfit, right?

While I am officially entered and submitted, and could call Crowns A&S done, I still want to do the optional video. So tomorrow I’m putting everything back on, one layer at a time to take a few pictures for the Calontir Clothing Challenge. Then I’m going to slip the uwagi off, untie the hitoe and put on a set of robes, called ginu, then put the uwagi back on. Once I’m properly dressed, I’ll take a few photos and then film the little script I have written up. After that, it’s all about the editing.

Oops. I guess that means I need to get those ginu pressed…

Home Stretch

Complete save one sleeve I step back and admire it Could I be more pleased?

The flaws quickly forgotten As its beauty melts my stress.

I finished it! The uwagi is complete!

I’d love to take some time to celebrate, but that has to wait until everything is turned in.

I’ve returned to the hat for it’s final assembly. First I removed the old veil panel. I’m currently trimming the kazari-himo or decorative cords to the same length.

Once I’ve finished that (I’ve got one left) I have to contemplate how I’m actually slitting the veil panels to weave the cords through. I think I’m going to go with exactly what I can see in that zoomed in photo, a central outlet so the cords hang down the center of the veil panel and a slit to allow both cords to pass to the back of the veil at the seams of the panels. The majority of the time the cords are encased within the channel created by the stitched down overlap.

After cords are adjusted, I’ll stitch the entire completed veil and cord assembly to the hat. Crud, A curved needle would make that a whole lot easier. I don’t think I have one…yeah, I looked, no dice. I may heat up a needle and take some tools to it and shape my own curved needle. I’ve done it once before. That 15 minutes or less spent making that needle bent will save me twice that time. Yup. I guess that’s a thing I’ll do after finishing that cord.

Once the mushi no tareginu or veil panels are attached it’s all over but the pictures. I’m getting dressed and taking pictures as early as I can to give more time for finalizing submission materials. Crown’s A&S is only accepting 3 images, so I’ve planned out the 3 shots I want. My partner is going to play photog. We have plans for shooting both outside and inside and choosing the best. I’ll grab some extra stuff and some video as well.

After going over the documentation one more time, I’ll upload everything and send it off.

Here’s a cool bit, they’re giving us a couple extra days for the optional video! This means I can shoot my video on Monday and then have two days to edit it. I’m super stoked about the extra time, my video will be so much better than if I had rushed it tomorrow with the other materials.

Uwagi Final Touches

Let’s make some more progress on this list.

I have a lot to do today in order to finish this project. The goal is to get the uwagi completely finished so I can finish the hat tomorrow morning and take pictures in the afternoon. If things get dicey, I have Sunday as a back up day, but I really would prefer to leave Sunday for a final polish of documentation and making sure everything gets turned in. The deadline is 11:59pm Sunday for all materials to be turned in.

The deadline looms large And imposing, challenging This one to meet it.

Head down and back to work, there Is no time to spare today.

Time to make some tea and get to stitching.

First up, top stitch the entire edge. This took 5 hours.

Next, sleeves. I’m doing this start to finish one sleeve at a time starting with the right sleeve. This is a process. Before starting, I double checked the direction of the brocade and matched the sleeve to the body. Then I moved to the actual attaching steps. First I pressed the back edge of the sleeve, the body side, to it’s final position in topstitching in both the lining and fashion fabric. Sounds like a weird thing to start with, but this is best done before the sleeve is actually attached to the garment. Next I attach the sleeve lining to the body lining and stitch it on. The upper/outer fabric sleeve is then attached to the body. Once it’s all stitched on, I flip the outer over the lining and fuss with everything, lining it all up in prep for the next step. This took 3 hours.

Pinning the right sleeve. This took about an hour and a half.

Top stitch right sleeve. I’ve got another 45 minutes on this and I’ll have a completed sleeve. That means the other sleeve will take about 5 hours, so I guess it’ll be finished tomorrow.

Uwagi Pinned In

The next step is – Put it together with the lining???

Lost on the next step I see the final version Not the path to it

My kingdom for clarity, I need to read Japanese

I tried translating the page again. It made slightly more sense but not enough to clue me in. I think “discipline” and “baste” may be the same thing? Grr. Not that the distinction really helps. I feel so lost. I’ll try translating it again and hope some kind of inspiration strikes. I need to make significant progress on fitting the two halves together in order to finish the whole thing on time. If I get really stuck, I’ll assemble the hat so I keep moving forward.

I read through the translated instructions a few times and well, I know that I should put the body together first and then attach the sleeves, but I already knew that, so I guess the confirmation is nice? I still have only a glimmer of insight into how to put the two bits together. I guess I’ll just start pinning it all together and see what happens?

I’ve spent hours pinning the uwagi and I have the two pieces, lining and upper or fashion fabric, completely pinned together. Tomorrow I’ll start with stitching that all together then move on to the sleeves.

Approaching the Finish Line

We left off with pinning the collar on. That took a while to finish.

Stitch collar. Done.

Mark sleeves. Briefly pausing to iron the pieces before marking.

Stitch sleeves. Done.

Now I have to figure out how to put it all together. This is the part of the instructions that I wish I could translate better, because it makes no real sense. I wish I could translate it all better, but here we are.

I hear the Siren – A lilting distraction lures Me from my great task

Inspiration for the next thing competes for attention

I really am getting excited about the next major project. I put it on the back burner for C3 and Crown’s A&S. I’ll be starting that in February. Yay! But back to the current thing…

More to Do on the Uwagi Upper

Pin second okumi. You better believe I added these steps to the list when I decided to pin and then stitch individually. It’s a great way to trick my brain’s reward center because I’ll have another thing that’s “ding!” checked off a list. Plus it made me a little sad that I didn’t break up the other step, lesson learned and behaviour “corrected”. Ha.

Stitch second okumi. Done.

Press all the seams. I think I’m going to put a pin in this and move on to the collar shenanigans first, stopping to press before pinning. So onward to that.

Mark collar. Check.

Cut collar. Done.

Re-edge collar. Complete.

Mark collar. I paused to iron the piece before marking it. I also paused for tea.

The kettle whistles Thick steam billows from it’s spout And pours into cups

Pondering the floating leaves As the liquid grows darker

Iron all the things.

Pin collar. Almost halfway done with this step. Not sure if I’ll stay up to finish it or save it for the morning. Maybe some more tea while I think on that.

Continuing on the Uwagi Upper

Today’s first project task was to finish the side seams. The fabric isn’t incredibly unpleasant to sew. I’ll take that as a small win. Then I began work on the list.

Cut open center front and edge it. I should have made this two things for the satisfaction of completing two things.

Mark okumi. I’d say this took longer than I’d like, but at this point everything takes longer than I’d like. I’m still a little irritated by the minor decrease in precision due to the chalk pencil I’m using. But it is only a minor decrease.

Pin okumi. One side is now pinned on. I’m going to stitch it on, then pin the other side and stitch it.

Stitch okumi. This is my current step for okumi one. I think it’s the left.

Once again I’ve copied and pasted the rest of the tedious list in a draft for tomorrow’s post. It’s working really well to keep me on track.

The smell of woodsmoke Binds merry souls together On cold winter nights

Please keep the hearthfire burning, A candle in the window

Uwagi Upper

I marked the double wide migoro panel with a safety pin at the back hem. I have to carefully put the garment together making sure that all of the panels are running in the right directions. The brocade is directional. One of the okumi panels will be upside down. I think. I didn’t have enough fabric to flip the panel for cutting. It would have taken almost another 2 yards.

Let’s get my “tedious” list made so I can concentrate. Stress has sapped all my bandwidth.

Mark false back seam. Check.

Mark side seams and sleeve attachments. Done

Mark the okumi attachments. Complete.

Fold and pin false back seam. Done.

Stitch false back seam. Also complete.

Unfold and pin side seams. All set.

Stitch side seams. This is my current place, And I doubt I’ll get through both of them tonight, So I’m just going to copy and paste the rest of the list into tomorrow’s post. Easy Peasy. Though, that does not mean I expect to get all 14 things on that list done tomorrow. Oh no. That would be great, but I don’t sew that fast. Plus I still don’t know quite how I’m doing one of the steps…

The smoke drifts upward Gentle tendrils reaching out Embracing fragrance

The tea cup is slowly drained As the ember glows its last 

Pressing On

I finally went to bed last night after finishing the markings for the migoro and okumi (body and overlap).

Today I finished marking the sleeves and collar pieces, cut everything out, and edged all the pieces.

I’m covered in tiny synthetic threads. The way this stuff sheds is unbelievable. I honestly expected the fabric to be so awful I’d have to figure out something else. This just really reinforces to me that I don’t want to make anything from fabric like this ever again. Ick.

And tomorrow I start stitching the upper. I need to make one of those absolutely tedious lists of the steps again to keep myself on track.

The keyboard mocks me I hear laughter In the click Of each backspace press

The cursor calls with each pulse A taunt and promise of more

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