Another Primary Source

I’ve been gravitating toward documentation any time I feel down about this project. The research makes me happy…specifically learning things makes me happy.

Very specifically, I’ve been trying to track down a source for a bit of knowledge rattling around in my head. At one point I knew the name of the particular floral lozenge pattern that is seen on the hitoe of the modelled outfit from the Costume Museum. I swear I learned what the pattern was and that all hitoe use that same pattern. I have yet to come across that tidbit again so I can document it properly. Grr.

But I found something else.

I found another late Heian period (second half of 12th century) image of an ichime-gasa! In one of my own books no less. You can see the image here. It’s a section of Lotus Sutra that depicts a street scene, specifically the market in Heian-kyo (now Kyoto). On the far left of the image in the link above, under the calligraphy, is a woman wearing an ichime-gasa with mushi no tareginu. This same fan actually depicts 3 of the hats, only one of which sports curtains. I’m thrilled.

It’s also fascinating that the lady depicted in the center of the image is wearing her robes over her head and wearing geta. The same outfit at the Costume Museum wears zori. A fair number of the people pictured are actually wearing geta. Geta are wooden thong sandals, frequently with 2 ha or teeth protruding from the sole. Zori are thong sandals that are made of some other material, modernly foam or rubber. This is a modern definition that I can not certify as accurate for way back in the Heian period though, so take it as you will. Hats and footwear.

When at once it seems / the darkness overtakes us / and all hope is gone, / revisit the beginning / find yourself in what you lost.

Waiting to Dye

I had the silk laid out on the table, prepped to measure and cut a chunk off to dye it.

And I stopped.

Stuck. Frozen in fear / unable to move or think / in white hot terror. / Is it continued failure / or success that holds me fast?

I had a big fat doubt holding me back. What if my dye bath is off? I asked my parter if I should give it a go and try or order more dye and repeat my process as close to the same as possible. Yeah, I heard the right answer as it fell out of my mouth too.

I have ordered the dye I need. It will be here between Friday and Monday. This means sleeves for the hitoe are on hold for a few days. For now I need to cut the actual okumi overlap panels and start stitching those on.

Another Costly Mistake

Yes. Another one. Instead of cutting my okumi overlap panels down, I cut my sleeves which look the same as the overlap except they’re 10 inches shorter.

I’ve been in tears off and on since I realized what I had done.

The solution is not perfect. I went to the fabric store again. They had the fabric, but not enough to remake it in it’s entirety. I bought all they had left. The chain fabric store was out of dye. So I can’t just dye the whole lot of it. Tomorrow, because you had better believe I’m stopped for the day, I’ll edge a section of fabric and dye it according to the proportions I used in the sample dyeing phase. Fingers crossed it comes out close enough.

I’m seriously considering skipping A&S Champs for this year. We’ll see how well I recover from this latest set back. It’s really looking like I cant meet the deadline for the entire ensemble, and I still don’t really like the idea of entering just one piece.

Another mistake / precious time and resources / lost, squandered on carelessness / Another day spent scrambling / in attempts to salvage it.

Side Seams and Fabric

The additional brocade to fill out what I already had has arrived. It matches. All is well.

Beautiful brocade / light gold with darker flowers / Has graced my table / How much more delightful will / it be sewn into a robe?

I’ve moved on to the side seams of the hitoe.

Inspiration After Hours

After I posted last night, I continued to work on documentation and actually started to tailor it toward the idea of a journey. It was an intriguing feeling turning rather matter of fact information into something closer to a narrative. And I’ve decided to include some of my poems in the documentation. I sifted through all of them last night and found a little less than half were directly related to the project.

Today was definitely productive. I ironed the dyed silk, marked out the pattern on it, cut out the pieces and managed to get the back seam finished.

Tomorrow I move on to side seams.

Have I mentioned that I’m pleased with the color? I’m really, really happy with how it turned out. Yes, it is exactly as I’d hoped, but that’s just it, it’s exactly as I had hoped. And that’s absolutely wonderful. I needed the win.

Appreciate the / calm times, the moments / without stress or care – / file them away for later / when turbulence needs be soothed.

Diving in to Documentation

In the light stupor / of having just awakened / I conjured a poem / It delighted me so much / I smiled and went back to sleep.

It took most of my day to recover the house and kitchen from yesterday’s festivities.

It may take me another day or two to recover me.

I love cooking Thanksgiving dinner for my family and friends (contactless pick up this year) but it really takes a lot out of me.

Onward to the travelling outfit!

This evening I’ve been reworking my documentation to adjust for the changes in fabric. It’s not in it’s final form yet. I have this idea of linking the journey of creating the outfit with it’s intended purpose of being an outfit worn for travelling, for a journey. I’m just not sure how to express that in the documentation. I suppose it would need to be in a narrative form. Perhaps a condensed version of this blog. Intensely condensed. I have it in my head that I should limit myself to 8 pages of documentation. I take this to exclude source images and bibliography. I’m also off down a rabbit hole trying to learn what I can about a lovely primary source for the hat.

I’m still holding out hope that I’ll be able to enter this into A&S Champs.

Partially to speed things along and largely because it is a synthetic fabric, I’ve decided I will absolutely machine stitch the upper/outer of the uwagi.

Tomorrow I cut out the hitoe (green layer). I’m looking forward to getting back to stitching.

Dyeing a Little

I’ve mentioned a few times that I’m filming this project. Well, I had my first big flub with that today. I carefully recorded precise shots to document the dyeing process, until the shot where I actually pour the dye into the washer and put the fabric in. I didn’t hit record. I’m tremendously disappointed. It’s kind of a pivotal shot. Oh well. C’est la vie.

At midway through the dye cycle, otherwise known as catching the wash cycle before it ends and resetting it, I pulled through the fabric, lifting and untwisting it from the dyebath before setting it back in for a second wash cycle in the blue green water. Long stretches of fabric get pretty snarled up in the washer. I read once that if you sew your fabric into a mobius strip it doesn’t tangle as badly. Today was not the day to test that.

It looked like the dye had taken evenly through the fabric, but I won’t know fore sure until it’s dry and ironed. I put the silk through the dryer. Probably shouldn’t have, but it’s done now.

The little thread misadventure…got the whole way there only to discover the green thread I have at home is the best match. Sigh.

Through carelessness and / a bit of bad luck, joy has / evaporated. / Will diligence and hard work / restore that elusive spark?

Experiments to Dye For

Repeated samples / in a lovely range of hues / in search of just one. / Will my dyepot reveal the / proper shade of blue-green silk?

I don’t have a scale fine enough to measure in the fractions of grams, so I winged it. I cut a section of silk into small pieces, about 3×6 inches. I used three metal snack containers and deposited a small amount of kelly green, teal, and half and half in the tall tins along with a 1/4 teaspoon of white vinegar. Each container got a piece of silk that I had soaked in water. 30 minutes later and I was in business.

It over-dyes in tests very, very well. And doesn’t lose its lovely sheen. Hooray!

I found that I wanted something in-between the half and half and the teal. I poured out the kelly green and poured equal parts of the other two in, so 3/4 teal, 1/4 green. It looks great, but a little light, which was possibly from the dye load being spent, so I mixed up a test batch. Still light, but I was light with the dye powders. Another test.

It’ll do.

The swatch on the left is the original. From top to bottom, kelly green, half and half, teal, dye-spent 3/4 and full strength 3/4. The colors are a bit more vibrant in person. And the last test produced a color very similar to the shade in 2 of my books. I’m pleased.

More than that. I’m excited. I’m going to put a running stitch through the ends so they don’t fray badly. Tomorrow I’ll dye the fabric via washing machine. Fun stuff.

Oh crap. I just realized I don’t have matching thread. Did a quick online check. I can get a possible match in Gutermann silk thread at Joann, the website says they have 4 each of teal and blue-green. I’d rather order more Japanese silk thread, but there is no time for that now.

Let’s all hope I stitch swiftly.

Rolling With the Punches

Mental gymnastics / performed to save a project / from utter failure. / Will contorting provide an / answer or just a headache?

I have a new plan.

Before I went on my fabric adventure I measured a polyester brocade that I bought on a whim thinking it might make a nice uwagi. The funny part is that it’s not enough fabric for an uwagi. But I bought it at the store I was headed to, so I hoped for the best. Using this brocade would allow me to still use the dark gold silk taffeta and maintain a color palette for the same seasons.

Off I went.

And I didn’t find the brocade. But I did find a lightly slubby dupioni silk in a color that if I had to use it as is would sort of pass. I bought 2 yards more than I needed. Just in case.

Back home and I called the other locations of this local fabric shop in hopes of the brocade. No dice. But it’s a seriously common pattern. So I found it online and ordered a yard more than I need. Here’s hoping the dye lots are close enough!

A light gold brocade fabric with dark gold and brown flower blossoms on branches

So the plan is to do a dye test on the almost ok colored silk. It’s a gorgeous tan shot light teal to start. I’m going to try over-dying it with a mix of kelly green and teal, and other variations until I get the right thing or refuse to use any more fabric for tests. This may mean that I have to order acid dye. But that’s if the first try with RIT goes poorly.

The hitoe is now a dye project…

I won’t cut into the brocade until the last two yards I need get here. Besides, that synthetic trash frays so badly I’m seriously considering pulling out my serger. Don’t get me wrong, it’s pretty, but it’s still plastic trash fabric. And I’m currently a little hesitant to cut the gold lining without knowing for sure the fabric I ordered will work when it gets here.

My documentation is now…really out of date. I’ll have to strip out all the information on the fabrics that was there and rewrite it for the new ones. I’m going to lose points using a synthetic.

But on that note, I kind of don’t care. All of my fabrics are going back to their original purposes. There’s something beautifully poetic about it.. The uwagi made out of the cheap brocade will be a lovely addition to my SCA wardrobe. And it will look great with the yellow brocade karaginu, a fancy jacket worn on top of the uwagi for formal court appearances, in combination with a junihitoe, court robes in a distinct color pattern, ensemble I was gifted a couple years ago. It will be glorious!

I also have a little reading I’d like to do on that lovely lady’s website.

Screeching to a Halt

I made some assumptions I really shouldn’t have. I had the perfect opportunity to discover this twice over, and yet, here we are.

I don’t have enough fabric.

That’s right. I messed up. Big time. I didn’t measure them before I started. Strike One. I didn’t measure the remaining fabrics when I discovered that I didn’t have enough linen for the kosode. Strike Two. I measured today and realized I was an unbelievable 5 inches short on the green silk for the hitoe. Strike Three.

I’m not out, but I’m scrambling.

So that’s the green out of contention for the hitoe but I could use it for the uwagi lining or just a different project. I have some off white silk that I can over-dye to a more accurate shade of green for the hitoe. No problem. Time consuming, but not a bad solution.

But you see, I learned my lesson. And I measured the other fabrics.

And now I want to cry. And frankly, I did.

The yellow brocade for the uwagi is only 29 inches wide. I need it to be 5 inches wider or 3.5 yards longer.

No, I’m not kidding. I did buy it to make a karaginu. I guess it returns to it’s original purpose.

When I told my partner the answer was quite matter of fact, “I guess you’re buying fabric.” It’s not the most responsible idea, but I need this project to succeed. I don’t want to quit halfway though. And my partner supports me.

So tomorrow I’m going in person to a fabric store that reliably has silk taffeta. If I’m very lucky, I’ll find suitable colors. If I’m only lucky they’ll have a color and white or off white that I can dye. If I’m unlucky, I’ll go to a store an hour away or order fabric online. If I have to order fabric I’ll have to enter only one item in A&S Champs or, worst case, drop that entirely.

I did attend a few classes today at an online event. And I had my eyes opened. I am supremely impressed with the instructor of a class on Japanese Dressing. Her website is a treasure trove. She even has a handout detailing how to weave an ichimegasa, the hat from the museum photo. I wish I had found her site sooner, but now is fine. Top notch research and instruction. I’m blown away. And to top it off, this is the same person who gave me the answer about the kosode collar. She inspired this:

Sometimes another’s / brilliance banishes shadows / from your chosen path. / How does one thank the beacon / for her illumination?

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