Nikki and Blogging

No, not a person. Nikki means diary or journal and refers to a particular style of Japanese literature.

One of the reasons we know as much as we do about the minutiae of Heian court life is journaling. A number of aristocrats kept records that survive.

Please note, this is just a very small amount of surviving texts from an incredibly small segment of the population. As is so frequently the case, the lives of those who did not benefit from a lucky birth into a noble family with rank are more or less lost to us. There are few records to indicate what life was truly like for the “common” person. It is a subject I will endeavor to explore and amplify as I am able. A great deal of research will have to wait until I can read Japanese, but that’s another project.

Two women rose to literary prominence in the early years of the 11th century, Sei Shonagon and Murasaki Shikibu.

I quoted Sei Shonagon previously. She served as a gentlewoman to Empress Taishi. Her surviving work, The Pillow Book, gives glimpses of Heian court life through her infamous lists of things like “Infuriating Things” and “Awkward and Embarrassing Things” or “Things now useless that recall a glorious past”. Under that last one is “a switch of false hair seven or eight feet long, that’s now fading and taking on a reddish tinge.” And there we have primary source example of the use of false hair. Neat, huh?

The Pillow Book is not a nikki. It’s a book with what I think of as aspects of a nikki, and described on Sei Shonagon’s wiki page as “a collection of lists, gossip, poetry, observations and complaints”. But I’m letting my modern notions of a diary or journal color my perception of an ancient Japanese art form. The Pillow Book is a whole different genre.

Sei Shonagon’s rival, Murasaki Shikibu, gentlewoman of Empress Shoshi, author of the Tale of Genji, did write about Sei Shonagon in her nikki.

“Sei Shonagon is very arrogant. She thinks herself so clever and litters her writings with Chinese characters, but when you look at them carefully you will find many errors. Those who want to behave as if they were superior to others will lower their reputation. Will their future be brighter?”

That had to sting. You can read a bit more in this fun blog post.

The reason I was thinking about nikki today is this blog. In a way, it’s my own diary. It’s yet another way I’m connecting with my project (and my research in general) that is reflective of a period practice. To that end, I’ve decided to toss a little poetry into the mix.

Stay Tuned.

Oh. And work on the kosode continues…of course.

Snow and Stitches

First snow of the year. I expected a dusting. We got 4+ inches.

I spent the day fetching supplies and staying in touch with a friend. It’s a bad feeling to get to the market and realize you forgot your mask and the backup you keep in the car is missing. Oh well.

We had socially distanced evening in the back yard, in the snow. Fire and Friends. Marshmallows and Merrymaking. I needed that.

I didn’t get much done in the way of sewing. But it has begun! Hitting that 10 stitches per inch or so mark is difficult. I think I’m getting 9 so far. I’ll get there. It is significantly faster than those tiny felling stitches on the mushi no tareginu (curtains).

This is my first handstitched garment. I can give myself a little grace. I’ll get better and faster. Which is good because I’m starting to feel a little deadline pressure.

I do find myself wishing I had a Japanese thimble. This would be an amazing opportunity to teach myself unshin, a traditional Japanese sewing method. Hmm…

Ok, I did a thing just now. I bought a ring thimble online. Less than $5. It’ll be here Monday. I’ll try out unshin and see how it goes. If I find that I really enjoy the sewing method, I’ll eventually commission a friend of mine to make a proper thimble for me.

Lost in Translation

“Sew seams at 0.8cm. Seam allowance is 0.2cm.”

Umm…What?

I’ve spent today trying to translate the instructions for the men’s undergarments and the women’s hitoe (the green layer in the museum images).

There is no standard seam allowance. 0.8, 1, and 1.5cm all are used.

There’s an instruction to “add glue and twist”.

That’s right, glue and twist. But what? A teeney rolled hem but with glue instead of thread? Is that how the raw edges of the overlap panel (okumi)are finished? This is not something I can learn in the next month. So here lies the day I made another choice to be less accurate so that I can actually make the project.

It’s possible that the 0.2cm has something to do with the seam treatment of the hitoe. The instructions translate to something along the lines of “fold seam into triangle”. I can tell from the image it’s a seam treatment, but I’ve no clue how to do it. Ok, now thinking about it, the hitoe is mostly marked (possibly thread marked?) at 0.8cm and then maybe stitched with 0.2? Maybe that’s a better translation.

The translation I get does shift a little too, so I’m going to keep revisiting it. I’m using Google Lens to translate. I’ll seek out another app or two and see what kind of translations I get from them before starting on the hitoe.

For now I think I’ve decided to use the men’s undergarments as a guide for the seam allowance for the kosode as it is also an undergarment. They both use 1 cm. So I’ll be using 1cm or 0.4inches.

I did read something in the instructions for the men’s undergarments that the stitch length should be 0.2-0.3cm. So I’m aiming for 10 stitches per inch. For comparison, the tiny stitches for the mushi no tareginu (curtains) are approximately 20 stiches per inch.

This is still going to be rather small stitching.

A Little Further Along

Finished felling down the fold over for the mushi no tareginu (curtains).

Still to go on the hat – trim the cords to the same length, cut the slits, weave cords through and knot them, remove old curtains from hat, attach new curtains to hat.

That’s right. This part of the project is a make-over. There’s currently a rectangle of cotton scrim sewn to the hat. It’s highly wrinkled and has discolored from age. I’m immensely happy to upgrade it.

But I think I’ll leave the hat for now and start sewing the kosode. I’ll double check seam allowances and get started first thing tomorrow.

I’d be more concerned about falling behind (currently at low levels), but I’m about to have a whole lot more free time. 4 work meetings left. Then it’s full concentration on this project.

Kosode – Take 3!

I did it today! I actually cut it out!

This silk. Oh my. It’s so luxurious. Lucky me to get this as my next-to-skin layer! I’m so glad I didn’t have enough linen! It’s like a heavy habotai, but not quite as smooth. It has a distinct lined texture, very fine, ribbed? But it’s definitely a plain weave. It makes me think of tussah/wild silk. That may be what it is. It’s also just ever so lightly slubby. Not like those huge awful slubs in dupioni, they’re very fine, only noticeable with the fabric at less than 12 inches and more of a double thick thread in the weave than a slub.

White fabric with a subtle ribbed texture.
White silk for kosode

My cuts are not perfect. Hard to be perfect in the floor. But it’s my best effort and that’s what counts to me. I did not cut the eri, collar piece(s) individually, nor make the diagonal cuts for the okumi, overlap panels. Silk has a tendency to fray something awful, so I’ve left those cuts undone for now. I also haven’t made the cut to separate the migoro, body panels, from each other. I don’t plan to separate them fully. I intend to deploy a false seam for the back seam.

Here’s what I mean – I currently have the two migoro/body panels in one large rectangle. I’m going to fold it in half lengthwise along the “cut line”. I’ll then sew it up halfway with the normal seam allowance. After this seam is sewn I’ll cut on the line separating the non sewn half of the garment. This is the front opening of the garment, and the stitched part is the back seam which I don’t have to finish! It’s not historically accurate, but I already have to cut entire panels from larger cloth instead of cutting the right length panel off a narrow bolt. Finishing the seams wasn’t necessary in period because the edges were mostly selvage. The fewer seams I have to finish the better, and I’ll have a lot of really long seams.

Kosode Day

It was late last night and I still needed to decide on the panel width… I resolved myself to pulling out my most recent kodode for an on the body decision. But in the morning.

The plan was the same as before – sweep and mop the floor, iron the silk, throw the silk in the floor, mark and cut. After the panel decision, of course.

About that. I pulled out my newest kosode and measured it. First, it’s a touch too long, so I’ll need to hem it at some point. Luckily, the amount it needs to be hemmed works out to what I decided as the body length of the garment. Yay! Second, the sleeves are actually shorter than I had drafted. Another tiny win! And the big deal, the panel width? This kosode is more than roomy enough, definitely gives the wide silhouette that Heian is all about, I know it looks great under all the layers, as I’ve worn it (once, maybe twice) and all with a panel width of 14.5 inches. Huzzah!

Now, I’m doing historical beginner for C3 and want to be as “historically accurate” as possible for Crowns A&S, so “looking right” only gets me so far. I know that I’ve read in many places that the panel width/loomed width of fabric within the Heian period was 16-18 inches. So I may cut at 16 inches to be more accurate and take a wider seam allowance. Even though I’d rather not. And I can document narrower looms. Hmm…

And, once again, other things got in the way, and I did not cut into the fabric. At least I’ve decided on a 16 inch panel width.

I also attended a class, Capturing Your A&S Process for Competition or Display. I hope to incorporate the concepts into my presentations of the completed travelling outfit.

Avoiding the Kosode

I’m not really, but it feels that way. Okay. Maybe I am. A little.

I had intended to complete the kosode first. The kosode is the next to skin layer of the outfit. I wanted to work my way from inside to out. And then my linen thread was slightly delayed. Next I didn’t have enough linen in a solid piece. Luckily I seem to have exactly the right amount of silk. Even if it is slightly off white. And now…um, I just don’t want to cut into the silk, I guess?

It’s the one garment that I don’t have a period pattern for. I had to extrapolate the pattern from other garments. Can you tell my anxiety is playing up? I’m also worried that I may have measured something wrong or done a bit of faulty math.

Here’s the plan. Clear the floor of the dining and living rooms. Mop. Re-iron the silk. Throw the silk in the floor. Just kidding, kind of. I am putting the silk on the floor though. I’ll mark out the entire garment to be safe and then cut it out. That anxiety comes with paranoia. No, I don’t really trust the little paper layout I made.

I have one last decision to make before I mark out the kosode. What panel width? The men’s undergarments are cut from 50cm wide bolts. But a Laurel I know has explained that those garments were likely funerary and oversized. The women’s garments use 45cm – 17.7 inches. But women’s garments weren’t tailored to the body at all and those are outer garments. I’m very tempted to use the wingspan method. 14 inches would do nicely for me., though I may go with 15.

Got the floor prepped and then had a work meeting.

And now I don’t have work? My contract is not being extended with my employer. Last day is November 5th. I’m lucky to have had a job, especially in my industry, for this long. Not a great time to be a theatre kid. Stupid pandemic.

So I took the rest of the day off.

Tomorrow is another day.

On the Way to Kosode

What do you do when you find that your bolt of linen is 2 yards too short?

Well, I pivoted to silk.

Luck was with me today when I discovered that I didn’t have as much linen as I thought. I managed to find another few pieces of linen and had almost resolved myself to piecing it when I remembered a bit of white silk in my stash. I measured it. 4 2/3 yards at 55 inches wide. It was going to be close.

Next I set myself to drafting a kosode pattern. The modern analog for a Heian kosode is a nagajuban. It’s the skin layer. Yes, there are perfectly lovely and workable patterns available. All my other kosode use them. I specifically recommend this page by Lisa Joseph, known in the SCA as Saionji no Hana.

The other two garments in the ensemble will be constructed using Jidai Isho no Nuikata, a wonderous tome made by experts in the field of Japanese historical dress who took apart garments left to a temple and patterned them. It’s as close to historically accurate as I can get. But it doesn’t include a woman’s Heian kosode pattern.

I decided to use two men’s undergarment patterns and the women’s patterns for hitoe, itsutsuginu, uchigi, and uwagi as the references. I used my own measurements to determine the length for the body of the garment. I made the sleeve just a bit shorter than the hitoe sleeve so it nests inside neatly. I drafted the overlap panels to be 13cm shorter than half the length of the body panels, the same as the aforementioned women’s patterns. I used the collar length from the women’s hitoe and the width is the same across all garments.

Now was the moment of truth, did I have enough silk?

Yes.

As luck would have it, I have exactly enough silk. Down to the inch, exactly what I needed.

A yellow soft measuring tape curls over the fold of white silk fabric. In front of the fabric is a spool of white thread. The label reads, "Superior Thread, Kimono Silk, #100 Silk Thread"

In other good news, Golden Witch shipped my silk thread without delay! They even included some nifty vintage fishing findings. I have an angler friend who may appreciate them. No, I didn’t realize I was ordering from a rodmaker’s supply. They had the thread I needed in stock at a great price.

I’m so excited to have the silk thread to finish the kazari-himo. I’m seriously considering blasting out the three remaining cords and finishing the two remaining panels. That’s right. Finished another one last night. It would feel really good to get an entire layer complete ahead of schedule.

Tomorrow I’ll warp the marudai, stitch another panel and possibly cut out the kosode.

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