Tag: Kosode

Astonishing speed / When the roadblocks are removed / And supports in place / Time spent in preparation / Saves stress and headache later

Finally got a functioning work-around for my technology woes. The first thing I tried was software, and that didn’t play well with my PC. My partner tried another program that also failed. So I’m uploading things to YouTube and Facebook privately then downloading it for editing and later public posting. Hoops. Jumping. Boo.

This does mean that I was able to continue without any interruption on the recording things front. Getting really close to having something ready. I just want to finish the kosode before I spend a few hours editing. The first one’s easy. I hope.

The eri, collar, is just over half way attached. I’ll finish that stitching, do the “triangle” seam treatment and then fold and stitch the excess fabric from the migoro and okumi, body and overlap. Either late tonight or first thing tomorrow the kosode will be complete!

It will need pressing, then I’ll have to do some test photos of it on the body. It may be a touch too sheer for general public consumption. Which is fine. It’s underwear. And I’m sure I can manage something for “modesty” if necessary. Lighting it properly may be enough.

I’m so excited to be so close to done with the first garment!

The state of the kosode:

The sleeves are folded in thirds so they fit on the table.

I haven’t sewn anything yet today, probably won’t. I may force myself to work on my documentation or something more than the one tiny snip I made to finish opening the center front. I’ve been distracted and have had some other things to do.

I have no real updates. My Dad has a long road ahead of him to get fully better.

Gentle reverie / broken by grey wings flapping / The great bird landed / and silently stalks its prey / A flash, ripples on the pond.

I’m terribly excited. And so very grateful. Someone who knows more than me, and appears to be able to read Japanese, has given me an answer and a photo of their source. (I’ve asked for the source, because yes, please, more sources).

“The excess corners are folded in twice and sewn in place with a running stitch. The 14 cm collar is folded in half for wear – no stiffening or extra layer of fabric is used, just a single layer of fabric folded in half for wear and unfolded for storage.“ — R.T.

And there was much rejoicing.

I got that answer, a lovely walk with a friend, and wrote a tanka inspired by another friend’s cup of morning enthusiasm before the day devolved into phone calls and texts because my father was hospitalized.

I’ll get to the collar tomorrow.

Steam curls from the cup / Bitter aroma drifts sky- / ward on a light wind. / A leaf in the dark liquid / Hazard of a breezy day.

Something that slowed me down a touch while hemming the sleeves – seams letting go. The start and end points of the attachment for the sode, sleeves, and the start of the side seam on both sides almost all had issues. My knots were not enough. So I reinforced those spots as I hemmed.

Lesson learned. Always give your thread ends a firm start AND finish.

On to the eri, collar.

I started by making the decision on how deep to cut the neck opening. My research gave me 19.5 (on the oversized men’s hitoe), 13.5 on the other men’s undergarment, 12.5 on the uwagi, and 11.5 for the women’s hitoe. I’m going with 11.5 cm. I don’t feel quite right about either of the men’s garments as one is oversize and the other is well, different.

I also went over the translation again to see if I had missed any helpful information on any of the source garment patterns and to double check everything before I start sewing. And I was stopped dead in my tracks.

I wrote in a previous blog the the top edge of the body and overlap panels will have this extra triangle shaped bit that gets folded up and tucked into the collar, sandwiched between two layers of fabric. What if I told you that there was only one layer of fabric?

Yeah. Made my head spin too. I’ve asked about it on the SCA Japanese facebook group, and so far, I’ve been told to do it the fold over way. I swear I asked the question clearly. I’ve attempted to clarify and uploaded source documents.

Now I’m stuck in research purgatory while I wait on someone who is more familiar with the Nuikata to weigh in.

If what I suspect is right, this really will be my lucky kosode. To make the collar work as one layer, it has to be cut on the selvage edge of the fabric, using that edge as the finished edge. I initially laid out and cut the kosode in such a way that I had a long narrow band that was selvage on one side. I planned on using it as the kake-obi, the red belt/sash worn around the shoulders. Well, it just so happens to be within a quarter inch of what I need, so that’s likely being repurposed – pending what others say. I have some off white silk taffeta I can use for the kake-obi.

I am half convinced I’m on to something that the other Japanese scholars in the SCA have missed and half convinced I’ve missed something small but vital that explains the whole thing.

Trying to do more / Though it comes in fits and starts / And yet I persist / Finally making progress –  / Halted for lack of knowledge

It was very ambitious of me to think I would finish hemming everything in just an hour or two. And possibly a little silly.

I did not pull off magic.

I have one sleeve left to hem, which may or may not be finished tonight. So tomorrow will be collar day, and that’s ok.

Added to the pot / Leftovers from yesterday, / More vegetables, / A little bit of magic, / Some time and “voila!” – it’s soup.

I’ve been revising how long it should take to sew a garment by hand and am much less stressed and even more determined. There is of course the very slim chance that I find a job, then all bets are off. I’ll deal with that challenge when that happens. For now, sleeve hemming.

Eventually / This shapeless pile of white silk / Becomes a garment / First of three of similar / Shape, almost complete, almost.

Seam finishing is complete.

The sleeve edges need one more turn and the hem needs hemming. I’ve decided to use running stitch for both. I expect to finish those two tasks before bed.

Tomorrow I’ll attach the eri, collar, and the kosode will be complete.

I’m frustrated because I’m taking so long. working in fits and starts. A little bit every day, but still not enough.

Deep breath.

Please, unclench your jaw / Relax your shoulders, gently / Take a slow, deep breath. / How long has it been since you / Last allowed yourself some peace?

Back to it.

I’ve been listening to SCA classes on YouTube while stitching. Today I’ve listened to Introduction to Documentation and How to Research Like an Academic. And I’ve discovered that the East Kingdom’s YouTube channel has some lovely playlists set up, so I’m going to listen to one of those (made up of hours of classes) next. The webministry is doing an amazing job.

I’ve been reassessing my timeline, and I have a few more days before I think things start to get too tight for comfort.

So far today I’ve just about finished the first step, folding over and then using a running stitch to secure the fold. I decided to use that simple method as my seam finish for the sleeves. I’m going to try the “triangle fold” method from the pattern instructions for the okumi seams. I think I understand it now.

Deep breath. And back to it.

The tech issues persisted into today. And it has me a little worn out. But it seems that I’ve found a work around in third party software. Or not. What seemed to be a fix has let me down. I’ll keep working on it.

Last night I did indeed finish hemming the openings.

While working on other things today I was doing a lot of thought about the eri, collar.

A quick aside. I use the Japanese terms because that’s the word that pops into my head first when thinking of the item. I don’t know much Japanese, but there are certain things, like the names of parts of garments and a handful of colors that Japanese is the first language I think in. I’ve been studying Heian clothing for almost two decades. Is it any wonder some of the information is so rooted in my brain that I see fall colors and immediately think of the names of kasane, color combinations?

Anywho…

I’ve been wondering about the collar and the excess material at the top of the migoro, body, and okumi, overlap panel. In modern kimono the excess is folded up and encased in the collar. I have no reason to stray from the modern practice. I’ve cut it off in the past. Many recreationists add interfacing to their collars to make them crisp. I never have. I didn’t see anything in the translations so far to indicate use of a stiffener. So I’m not changing on that one. My biggest decision is how deep to cut the slit at the shoulder fold/neck opening. I’ll consult the patterns again and make a choice.

But later. Today is for finishing sleeves. Which means I have to come to a decision about seam finishes. So. Unless I cut into the seam allowance, folding over and felling down (or at least putting a running stitch through the fold), away from the seam on each side is the only way with the sleeves.

I’ll need to finish the seams on the body before I attach the collar and finish the hem. It’s getting so close to done but there’s still so much to do.

Why would you put off / Until later what you have / Had all day to do? / Does the pressure compel you / As the deadline approaches?

It’s sleeve day!

First thing is to decide on the final size of the sode, sleeves. I’ve looked through the patterns that I’m referencing again, and it didn’t help. Well, it helped, I just wasn’t presented with an easy answer.

The men’s hitoe is too big. The other men’s garment has a completely different style of sleeve. The women’s hitoe has 74cm (29 inches) sleeves. I also looked at the pattern for a later period uchikake, a fancy outer-wear garment that the kosode evolved into, sort of. Those sleeves were remarkably different being half panel width and much more short, only 44.5cm (17.5 inches). Some patterns made by modern recreationists are as short as 15 inches.

I went with something in between. 20 inches. Bigger than the later period and using a full panel width, but not so big as to even completely fill up the hitoe sleeve that will go over it. It’s the size that to my eye gives an appropriately imposing period proportion.

I’ve finished sewing the bottom and front edge seam on both sleeves so far. I plan to fold over the opening for the hand and hem it down on each one next. I’ll probably get that done before I turn in to a pumpkin.

I’d love to include some more progress photos, but I’m experiencing technical difficulties migrating photos and video from my phone to the computer. Here’s hoping I resolve those issues soon.

And I spent a little time on the beach today. It was quite windy.

Rivulets of sand / Hurried by unrelenting / Wind across the beach / The unseen makes itself known / And rushes into the sea

Once I have the sleeve openings hemmed I’ll attach the sleeves to the body of the kosode at the shoulder. I’ll then hem the body side of the sleeve and double check that I sewed the side seam up high enough – I may have gotten a little off when converting centimeters to inches.

And I still have to figure out seam treatments.

I definitely will not be finished with it tomorrow, but most likely in a day or two of my target deadline and that’s not too bad.