Digging In and Out

Buried beneath a Blanket of deep, cold, white snow The grass is still green

What awesome wonders are found Hidden below the surface

It snowed. A lot. There has been much shoveling.

I’ve been refreshing myself on Turabian. I’d really like for my documentation to be as top notch as it can be, so I’m going with what I know and also what lets me use superscripts for footnotes because I like the tiny sized numbers. They’re cute. And unobtrusive.

And I am hardcore procrastinating on this collar. Ugh.

I was just given a wonderful gift. I was due to take care of a dear friend’s kitties while they were out of town. She just released me from the task specifically so I would take a day off. Tremendous act of love and I am very grateful. She also reminded me that sometimes procrastination happens because you need a break.

Snow is Coming

Anticipation Of the silence, the quiet The hush as it falls

This evening a gift of snow The world covered in magic

Today was supposed to be for the collar. I swear I meant to do it.

I started by reviewing the diagrams and the translated instructions. The next thing I know it’s six hours later and I’ve reworked my documentation to incorporate what I’ve learned and address more of the comments from its previous review.

I really hope this is the last major revision and that it will just be updates from now on. I even settled on footnotes as my citation style. Why footnotes? Not sure, other than I really like them. It’s like a gentle “ahem, more knowledge below” without making you flip all the way to the end (I dislike endnotes).

So tomorrow will be collar day…

Sunshine and Stitches

Glittering sunbeam Shining through jewel toned curtains Brightening the room

Most welcome is your warm light Spilled across the hardwood floor

The sleeves are now finished and ready to be attached. Tomorrow is collar day.

Don’t Forget to Iron!

I was about to start attaching the collar when I realized I had not pressed a single seam.

Oops.

I tried the Japanese technique for it, the crease is just over the stitch line so the stitch line is hidden. Yeah, I’ll need practice on that. For now I’m satisfied with pressing the seams the directions I’m supposed to based on the instructions on the Nuikata.

And I decided to not do the collar today. I’m working on the sleeves instead. So far I have it stitched at the bottom and am just passed halfway around for the roll hem on the back or body side of the sleeve.

I don’t think I’ll finish tomorrow, but the hitoe is getting very close to complete.

Some days words flow like Wine at a feast, unceasing, Intoxicating

Temperance is no virtue, Drink deep this inspiration.

Working Through Bad Days

I’m really not feeling creative or motivated at all today. More specifically, I really don’t want to do anything today, but if I’m going to do anything, I only want to work on my project. Everything else makes me grumpy.

It’s time to get to work. I’m going to apply myself to the task and hope a better/more positive mood develops from (hopefully) making progress.

Lining up and pinning the okumi (overlap) panels was the most challenging pinning I’ve done in quite some time, including the pinning of the collar on any of the garments I’ve made recently. It truly wasn’t hard, but getting two angled lines to match up exactly is a lot more intense than lining up the edges of two pieces of fabric. Now to stitch them on.

Oops. I got distracted by documentation. The copy of Jidai isho no Kitsuke that I had ordered apparently does not exist in their warehouse. I’m very disappointed. But there was also good news in my inbox. The class I took where the instructor, Lady Oribe, shared the same book was recorded! I can’t share it publicly, but for my own benefit, I screen captured the images I needed and transcribed her list of the component items of the outfit.

I probably can’t do much to edit my entry for Crowns A&S, but I may have time to fix some things for the Calontir Clothing Challenge deadline at the end of January. It would include altering my skin layer, adding a kosode, and making shin protectors.

Now we go back to stitching.

A continued fight Each day a realization Of cherished ideals

Oh, reed! Bend but do not break, The wind will subside in time.

And the okumi are attached.

Tomorrow begins with step 10, attaching the collar.

Going Hard at the Hitoe

Before I went to sleep last night I made decent progress on the most current version of the hitoe plan, all the way through step 4, sewing the side seams. Ripping out the old seams (steps 5 and 6) was not something I was willing to do at 2am, so I stopped there. I think that’s a decent rule, no seam ripping or cutting after 2am. Maybe midnight.

The longer stitch length is a little hard to keep. I’m leaning heavily toward the 0.7cm side. But it is faster. It feels so weird to make such big stitches, but it does look like the “basting stitch” description.

Something I was considering, my sewing machine can not match this stitch length. That means one thing, I need to hand stitch the uwagi (upper garment). Which means I need to move faster. A lot faster. I am currently 9 days behind my original production schedule. Which isn’t so bad, and I really do think I can catch up.

Redoubled efforts Steadfastness of conviction Mind locked on the task

Banish the thoughts of failure Time must not be wasted

Hmm. I think I might like that format for the poems.

I made it through step 8 today, so tomorrow starts with step 9, attaching the okumi (overlap).

All Hail Dedication

When motivation Waxes and wanes like the moon Dedication reigns Focus, determination, perseverance her subjects.

I was struggling this morning, not wanting to do anything, much less work on something challenging (it’s collar day). So I procrastinated, doing absolutely nothing of value and lamenting my lack of motivation. And then my muse smacked me, and made me work for that poem. I struggled with the last to phrases for longer than I usually have to (my poems almost always roll fluidly from my pen – or keyboard).

I’m glad it took effort. Things that are worth it do take effort, and I needed that reminder.

I finished roll hemming the collar in the wee hours yesterday morning and then proceeded to not sleep at all. I filled yesterday with work on documentation because I didn’t quite trust myself to not make a mistake with my brain stuck on with no rest. It was a weird day. My blogpost felt weird too. But today we have a collar to attach!

The steps for attaching the collar: First I’ll lay out the body of the garment and mark the stitch line for the collar. Next I have to make small cuts along the fold or shoulder line of the garment from the center out 11.5cm. Then I pin the collar to the garment following my stitch lines. Once it’s stitched on, there are a few tucks that get top stitched in place so that the 14 cm collar becomes maybe 6 cm around the neck (7.5 inches down to 3 or so).

I’ll be pleased to accomplish all of that today. If I still have time left in the day, I’ll mark the stitch lines for the sleeves. I’m considering completely finishing the sleeves (stitching the bottoms closed and roll hemming the back edges) before attaching them to the body. That is, I think, how the instructions play out. At least so far as I can translate with an app.

Got so far a marking the collar before a mistake stopped me cold. I marked the collar with a 1cm seam allowance. Then I double checked the patterns. The collar actually takes a 4cm seam allowance. Oh dear. I checked the rest of the seam allowances for the garment. Yup. I’ve messed them up. Sigh.

I am not ripping out all of those seams to redo them. I just can’t. This garment will just be wrong. One day, far, far off in the future, I’ll take it apart and put it back together. For now, it’s a lesson and I’ll make sure the uwagi that I’m moving on to next will be more correct.

Or maybe I’ll rip it out. Ugh. I’ll investigate ripping it out. How about that?

The back seam is essentially right. That’s the only one. The side seams should be 9cm/3.5 inches. And the okumi attachment is just completely wrong. It’s supposed to be sewn on at this gentle angle that allows the collar to lay properly. Double ugh. I have to redo it. The hitoe won’t lay under the uwagi properly if I don’t.

So the new plan is thus: (1) mark the side seams with the appropriate allowance and (2) mark the sleeve attachments while I’m at it, (3) mark the migoro (body) with the angled attachment line, (4) stitch the side seams, (5) rip out the old side seams, (6) unpick/seam rip the okumi (overlap) seams, (7) iron the now removed okumi, (8) mark the proper stitch lines on the okumi pieces, (9) attach okumi, (10) attach collar, (11) finish sleeves, (12) attach sleeves.

Easy Peasy.

<insert joke about regretting my life choices as I choke on equal parts irony and sarcasm>

At least I know my plan for the next however long this takes…

OH! But there is some good news! I spent a little time trying the translating app from scratch. It’s interesting how every time it’s just the slightest bit different. I know now that it translates the kanji for okumi as “company” and that helped a lot. An entire paragraph of instructions now make something approaching sense. And I may not be able to translate the very first line quite right yet, but I got closer. I think it says, “Sew the stitches at 0.7 ~ 0.8cm, the seam allowance is .2cm to do”. The first half makes sense to me, the second part not so much. One of the diagrams shows a stitch line with the gap between stitches called out at 0.8cm. The stitch itself is the same length as the gap but is not labeled. Knowing what I do about garment construction, I am leaning toward sewing things with a 0.8cm stitch length. I have to do it all again anyway, so why not try to do it better? So the good news is I should stitch faster once I get the new stitch length down. And the longer stitch length makes sense. 10 stiches per inch is not all that much like the “basting stitch” I’ve always heard described but about 3 stitches per inch definitely does. It’ll be a major adjustment.

What was it I wrote at the start of this entry, about things being worth it being hard? Yeah. I’m feeling part of that on a deep level. Quite the lesson for the day. But it’ll be worth it.

Crown’s A&S Champions

I did it. I registered for Crown’s A&S Champions.

Not only that, I actually asked for help! I shared my documentation with a Laurel and friend for preliminary feedback. I appreciate her help and that she asked very specifically what types of feedback I was after. I doubt she’ll rip the document to shreds, but even if she does, I know I’ll be better for it. But I’ll be perfectly honest, I’m hoping for at least a little bit of validation. I’ve worked incredibly hard on this project, and I hope that shows in my documentation.

She says I should be proud and gave me a lot of valuable feedback. I’ll use that to polish my documentation as much as I can.

A friend posted a picture of a massively snarled looking tree trunk. I was inspired to write this:

Time rolls across bark / Lolling in great rivulets / Waves transfixed in wood / The wind has created art / Nature’s canvas, gnarled tree.

Inspiration for Documentation

Documentation. A tool to allow others to examine the who, what, when, where, why, and how of the thing you’re making.

I got a little caught up in documentation today. Both as in catching up from being behind and as in lost in the moment, losing track of time.

I’m not quite sure why I opened the document. It may have started with trying to figure out how to sprinkle tanka in to the research. It ended with something approaching a cohesive format and a really good effort at a narrative. I just got inspired, and I know better than to turn down inspiration. I’m using time as a framework for the story, relaying how long it takes to complete each piece in as much detail as I think is appropriate without getting bogged down. And now I know things like I spent 27 days on the hat. The time commitment on this project sinks in every now and again, but I still feel like I don’t have enough time to do it justice.

I’ve a number of tanka now spread throughout the documentation, but noticed I didn’t have any poems for the hat, neither the curtains nor the weaving of the decorative cords as all that work was done in October, before the Tanka Challenge of November, so that’s what today’s poem is for.

Meditative art / A repetition in silk / Facing the mirror / Hands move in rhythmic patterns / Decorative cords produced.

I used poems written to express a certain moment in the project or a specific part of the project. When updating the hitoe section of the documentation, I included the poem I wrote in frustration after miscutting the sleeves as well as the one about the dyepot. It was pleasant to reframe the poems that way, though the tanka that are right for inclusion in the documentation are not necessarily the best I’ve written. Incentive to work a little harder on them…

At the very end of this project I’m going to create a new page on this site with the full documentation, pictures of the completed ensemble, and an embedded link to whatever video I make for entry to A&S Champs.

Oh, and physical progress on the project is also happening! Roll hemming the collar continues. Slowly but surely…

Cutting the Collar

Still two weeks away / the season’s official start / but temperature tells a much different tale / of a winter weary day.

Winter is coming.

I spent a little time with the instructions for the hitoe trying to piece together what the seriously bad translation gives me, and it’s just no use. The diagrams mostly make sense. I’ve pretty much narrowed one character that translates as “twist” to be a rolled hem. But I can’t be positive. There’s still that line that says glue and twist… There’s no way around it, I need to learn Japanese.

Of course I’ve known that for years and just haven’t done it. Maybe this will be the final push I need to get serious about it. There is only so far I can go with my research without it.

I did reread the diagram for sewing the sleeve bottoms, and wow. The stitch length is .8cm or about 5/16 inches. That’s essentially 3 stitches per inch. That’s quite a departure from the 10 stitches per inch I’ve been doing everywhere else. I set the sleeves aside and started working on the collar. I was incredibly lucky to have a scrap that was big enough. I cut the length down by only an inch and a half and the width of the scrap at the narrow end was exactly the 7.5 inches I needed it to be.

I’m not looking forward to all the rolled hems I have to do still on the collar and the back of the sleeves. This is quickly becoming my least favorite stitch.

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